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Incubation area and bags

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  • #2196
    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    Hello! I’ve been a fan of mushrooms farming for a couple years now; in the last 2 years We (my friends and myself) have been working on how to develop gourmet mushrooms (white oyster) in Cancún, by using coffee from the hotels and coffee shops (yes, we are faaar away). The main idea is to use the residues from tourism activities. This course has helped us clear some questions, but I am still wondering something regarding the process in large bags (10 kg substrate or more).

    We built an incubation area for mushrooms using an structure made of PVC as well as plastic for covering (focused on protecting the substrate from bugs). In Cancún we don’t have a problem regarding cold weather, because the temperature is 26+/-2°C, and the humidity in the air is usually 80% or more. The main question we have would be, when should we open holes for air exchange? We have tested filtered bags (up to 6kg) with success, but the supplier in México requires that you buy at least 1000 bags at a time (which is a lot of money for a group of college students), and the supplier from US charges a lot on shipping, roughly 35% of the final price (besides exchange rate, which doesn’t help us at all). Therefore, our best option would be to use polyethylene bags column like, and make the holes ourselves. We were wondering if it would be best to open them before adding the substrate/mycelium, or jus keep the bags closed until the colonization finishes, or when should it be? It the last is the case, how much air  should we left inside?

    Regarding the opening of the bags, would we need to control humidity on incubation state? or just fructification state? We have noted some drying-like problems on the fructification step (considering the ambiance is quite humid here).

    Fruiting body

    https://1drv.ms/i/s!Ar4536aa1vfogsRT0TkBoXmx95wYNA direct link

    Thank you for your answers, we are really excited to start farming!

    #2200
    Eric Jong
    Keymaster

    Hi Eduardo-

     

    thanks for your note and it sounds awesome what you guys are doing in Cancun- so well done! Bit of a pain with the spawn and I hope the supplier will have a listening ear when you explain your situation and the good you’re trying to do.

    What we’ve done for a while now is use lay flat tubing used in aircon industry like this:

    https://www.kitepackaging.co.uk/scp/polythene-tubing/lay-flat-polythene-tubing/?gclid=COSMs5K_v9QCFbYV0wodqXcDTA

    And then you punch holes in it during before putting in incubation. try between 12- 16 holes to start with in a X shape about 2 cm wide. Might need some testing where you are but should work fine. Let me know how you get on.

    Happy growing!

    Eric

    #2226
    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    Thank you for your answer Eric!

    I have a couple more questions. We already filled 40x60cm bags, with 7 Kg of substrate mix (we made 9 bags, so you can imagine the manual labor!), and put them on the incubation chamber we prepared. We already made the holes trough the bag (9 “X” holes on each side), and were wondering about the humidity during incubation phase. When you use the filter bags, since you seal the bags, the water is contained inside from the start, and you know it’s going to be humid during the process; but in this case, since the bags are “open”, should we spray water on the substrate bags? How often? I have read documentation, and most of them suggest you to spray constantly during fructification phase, but doesn’t specify on incubation stage.

    The second question is regarding the course info. In the course you specify to pasteurize on lime bath or soap bath, and the wood is going to be hydrated during the process. And when you give the mixing proportions you mention 20% for straw, but I was wondering… you mean dry weight? or hydrated weight? Because we made our substrate with 20% hydrated weight, and our mix looks different from yours (quite black actually); since the straw increases air excange, and the less proportion of coffee decreases the chance for contamination grow from mould, I was wondering if you meant dry weight for the straw proportion.

    BTW, which kind of “soap” do you use? Laundy soap? Dishes soap? Hand soap? or which one should we look for? how much should you apply per litter? We already tried the lime baths (we had a lot, and a pH potenciometer on hand), but lime bath is complicated, because of how dangerous is to manipulate a 1% lime bath.

    I have to admit that, we have already cultivated mushrooms with the traditional “high tech” esterilizing at 15psi, etc etc. But we want to try to change to your “low tech” metodology, because it would be easier to apply, wouldn’t be dependant on school’s equipment, and friendlier with the enviroment. That without taking into account that the methodology is actually “right” from the biotech perspective (I mean, we wouldn’t imagine this  procedure ourselves if we didn’t found your course information!). So, i’m sorry for making so many (and long) questions, but I want to be clear on everything so we can fully develop our mushroom farm!

    Last comment. I have mixed perspectives on P. djamor (pink oyster) with coffee grounds, because some info mentions it grows faster and better that on straw, and other sources mentions otherwise; so, i’m going to give it a try, and let you all know our results!

    Thank you for your time!

    #2229
    Adam
    Keymaster

    Hi Eduardo,

    great to hear you have your first bags underway now. To answer your questions:

    1. There is no need to spray/humidify the bags during incubation phase. Although there are some holes if you poke them in, they are quite small so most of the moisture will be retained inside the bag still.
    2. The 20% straw in the mix refers to wet weight as you have done (apologies if it’s not very clear in the course at the moment!)
    3. We use washing up soap (dishes), but find that this only works well if the straw is already clean (as with the pre-chopped horse bedding talked about in the course). We’ve not had any problems with the Lime bath being dangerous – we obviously take care not to get any on our skin, but aside from that we’ve found it easy to work with and very effective at pasteurising straw for Oyster mushrooms.

    Pink Oysters – we’ve found they only work well when at least 50% straw is mixed in. The don;t seem too keen on just pure coffee, but it may vary depending on the strain of pink Oyster used.

    Hope this helps – keep us posted with your trials.

    best wishes, Adam

    #2233
    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    Thank you for your answer Adam!

    Sadly, I have to report that our bags didn’t grow properly… First two days showed mycellium growth (around 1cm diameter stars) but, it stopped. One week after inoculation, the bags doesn’t present any micellium growth… and we have mould showing up today in one bag (yikes!). The hard part is that we cannot define a specific reason for it to fail, althought I believe is due to the lime bath (since we have never tried that… but the mould was present!), or, in the worst case scenario, the micellium we bought (from a different provider that the times before) or the wood concentration wasn’t enought for the proper air exchange (which is less % that we have tried before).

    So, we are gonna make another batch, and this time we are going to apply soap bath (on a reason of 100mL of soap for 20 water litters and 1Kg of wood shaves). We are going back to the usual concentration on wood (10% dry weight) and 10% micellium, so that the micellium colonizes before any competitive mould shows up.

    We hope this will work, since we are kind of desperate to get the proper results soon… We will keep you posted!

    #2247
    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    So far, we tried the new mix, and the mycellium started spreading over the substrate wonderfully! However, the growth speed just dropped like 3 days ago and it’s not growing anymore… It’s not mould contaminated (just one, which we disposed already), so we are wondering what would be stopping the growth. All of our bags we made holes after inoculation (24 hours), and ensured that the substrate is not compressed. We make sure the area has air exchange, and the incubation area is inside a black tent, on the shadow, so no sun light exposure at all.

    The interesting part is that the bags are warmer that enviroment temperature, which usually means that the mycellium is “working” inside the bag, but why we cannot observe any more growth on the surface? I’m referring to the mycellium stars we see on the surface of the substrate… And we are kind of in a hurry, we have never had this trouble before 🙁

    #2251
    Adam
    Keymaster

    Hi Eduardo,

    my apologies for the slow reply, I have only just seen your post.

    Hmm…hard to sy awhat may have caused the satlled growth as it sound like you have created the right conditions in the bag, and it was growing well before.

    Did he mycelium stop growing at a certain point within the bag? We’ve had it before where the mycelium stopped growing at the bottom of the bag and it was because of a lack of air exchange there. I know you said you have poked holes in so maybe it’s not this, but just wondering if there was any pattern to where the stalled growth is in the bag?

    best wishes, Adam

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