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Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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  • in reply to: Incubation area and bags #2247
    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    So far, we tried the new mix, and the mycellium started spreading over the substrate wonderfully! However, the growth speed just dropped like 3 days ago and it’s not growing anymore… It’s not mould contaminated (just one, which we disposed already), so we are wondering what would be stopping the growth. All of our bags we made holes after inoculation (24 hours), and ensured that the substrate is not compressed. We make sure the area has air exchange, and the incubation area is inside a black tent, on the shadow, so no sun light exposure at all.

    The interesting part is that the bags are warmer that enviroment temperature, which usually means that the mycellium is “working” inside the bag, but why we cannot observe any more growth on the surface? I’m referring to the mycellium stars we see on the surface of the substrate… And we are kind of in a hurry, we have never had this trouble before 🙁

    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    You know? We have never tried coconut coir at all, and we have a lot around here! Maybe we should give it a try.

    Last time we pasteurised, we used 80°C for 60 minutes… And wasn’t enought! 6 filter bags, and everything was lost to mould 🙁

    in reply to: Ethylic alcohol #2240
    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    Do you mean… Tables, shovels, among others?

    We always use ethylic alcohol when disinfecting our working areas, but I don’t have any experience applying isopropylic alcohol… Shouldn’t be a big difference. After all, the alcohol works to “pin up” the microbiote. What I mean is that the spores, bacteria, etc, would “stick” to the surface of the table (for example) and therefore they wouldn’t contaminate your substrate.

    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    Great!

    Usually temperature pasteurisation (i’m still confused if English would be pasteurization or pasteurisation) is a good way to reduce the microbiote in the substrate, if using straw or sawdust, for example. We found out that coffee grounds require higher standards, since the coffee substrate is attacked easily by moulds if pasteurised. It is suppoosed to be due to the high nutrient content in coffee grounds (although I believe the tropical enviroment here contributes a little, giving more heat-resistant strains). That’s the reason I was suggesting pasteurisation actually! Our heat-pasteurised substrates were always moulded by 4 days.

    Regarding chemical pasteurisation, we are still making tests to make it work. Lime didn’t work properly for us (specifically because this particular material is quite expensive around here, and our bags didn’t present any growth at all!), and using washing soap already started growing after 24 hours.

    Of course grains for mycellium has to be sterilised! Altough our experience is (as mentioned by adam & eric) to just buy it, because the time investment is high (and, in our case, sorghum seed is not avalaible to buy locally, we don’t have the propper equipment on hand and goverment charges higher taxes for making it yourself), I can understand the “do it yourself”. I can mention that we have tried barley seed as well, and has amazing results on mycellium (higher that corn seed and wheat seed), but the only problem is that the mycellium ends up “compacted”, clay-like, like a block of whiteness glory (I mean it). But once mixed with the substrate, works amazing.

    P. ostreatus Mycellium on Barley Seed

    in reply to: Incubation area and bags #2233
    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    Thank you for your answer Adam!

    Sadly, I have to report that our bags didn’t grow properly… First two days showed mycellium growth (around 1cm diameter stars) but, it stopped. One week after inoculation, the bags doesn’t present any micellium growth… and we have mould showing up today in one bag (yikes!). The hard part is that we cannot define a specific reason for it to fail, althought I believe is due to the lime bath (since we have never tried that… but the mould was present!), or, in the worst case scenario, the micellium we bought (from a different provider that the times before) or the wood concentration wasn’t enought for the proper air exchange (which is less % that we have tried before).

    So, we are gonna make another batch, and this time we are going to apply soap bath (on a reason of 100mL of soap for 20 water litters and 1Kg of wood shaves). We are going back to the usual concentration on wood (10% dry weight) and 10% micellium, so that the micellium colonizes before any competitive mould shows up.

    We hope this will work, since we are kind of desperate to get the proper results soon… We will keep you posted!

    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    Your oysters look amazing! I had tried already esterilization with a pressure cook, for 15 minutes after reaching 121°C or 15 psi. This is standard esterilization, and should be fine for your process.

    Even you could pasteurize the wood/coffee mix inside the pressure cook and should be fine; i’ve been doing that for a couple years. I tried as well using microwave pasteurization, and worked just fine.

    In our personal case, We changed the process due to the energy investment (electricity is very expensive around here), as well as the quantity we are gonna process (about 100 kg per week is the goal) but if you can apply, go ahead! I hope you keep having awesome results!

    Keep posting!

    in reply to: Incubation area and bags #2226
    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    Thank you for your answer Eric!

    I have a couple more questions. We already filled 40x60cm bags, with 7 Kg of substrate mix (we made 9 bags, so you can imagine the manual labor!), and put them on the incubation chamber we prepared. We already made the holes trough the bag (9 “X” holes on each side), and were wondering about the humidity during incubation phase. When you use the filter bags, since you seal the bags, the water is contained inside from the start, and you know it’s going to be humid during the process; but in this case, since the bags are “open”, should we spray water on the substrate bags? How often? I have read documentation, and most of them suggest you to spray constantly during fructification phase, but doesn’t specify on incubation stage.

    The second question is regarding the course info. In the course you specify to pasteurize on lime bath or soap bath, and the wood is going to be hydrated during the process. And when you give the mixing proportions you mention 20% for straw, but I was wondering… you mean dry weight? or hydrated weight? Because we made our substrate with 20% hydrated weight, and our mix looks different from yours (quite black actually); since the straw increases air excange, and the less proportion of coffee decreases the chance for contamination grow from mould, I was wondering if you meant dry weight for the straw proportion.

    BTW, which kind of “soap” do you use? Laundy soap? Dishes soap? Hand soap? or which one should we look for? how much should you apply per litter? We already tried the lime baths (we had a lot, and a pH potenciometer on hand), but lime bath is complicated, because of how dangerous is to manipulate a 1% lime bath.

    I have to admit that, we have already cultivated mushrooms with the traditional “high tech” esterilizing at 15psi, etc etc. But we want to try to change to your “low tech” metodology, because it would be easier to apply, wouldn’t be dependant on school’s equipment, and friendlier with the enviroment. That without taking into account that the methodology is actually “right” from the biotech perspective (I mean, we wouldn’t imagine this  procedure ourselves if we didn’t found your course information!). So, i’m sorry for making so many (and long) questions, but I want to be clear on everything so we can fully develop our mushroom farm!

    Last comment. I have mixed perspectives on P. djamor (pink oyster) with coffee grounds, because some info mentions it grows faster and better that on straw, and other sources mentions otherwise; so, i’m going to give it a try, and let you all know our results!

    Thank you for your time!

    in reply to: sourcing/spacing #2197
    Eduardo Ucan
    Participant

    You can Try Paul Stamet’s Fungi Perfecti, I have requested their bags before, they are nice and helpful! As well the unicorn bags official us site (but they require to buy large quantities, starting at 1000)

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)