Hi Alvin,
I have used coconut coir a long while back as a substrate and it worked fine. On it’s own it produces very low yields, but it could work well mixded in with the coffee frounds.
Just pasteurise it by hydrating with boiling water shortly before you’re about to inoculate, and be careful to squeeze out any excess moisture before adding it in with your coffee.
Hi Karen,
You might find that this works a few of times, especially if the spawn is vigorous and well colonised before you expand it again, and if you use it at a high rate.
The times that I have done this I’ve found mixed results – sometimes it worked well but the majority of the time it resulted in some green mould in the new substrate. I think this happens because some mould spores are present (although not at all visible) in the substrate being used as ‘spawn’.
This is the problem with expanding a ‘spawn’ source likely to contain other organisms other than the Oyster mycelium. When you break it up and mix it into new substrate there’s a chance you also give other species (especially blue/green moulds) to prosper as well. This is why spawn is normally a pure mushroom culture growing on a steruile substrate – so you can be sure of what you are expanding.
That’s not to say it’s not worth trying though – I’ve definitely had a good number of successes like this and it can save a lot of money on buying new spawn. I think the key if you do it would be to use it at a very high ratio of 1:2 or 1:3 as you suggest.
Let us know how it goes!
best wishes, Adam 🙂
Hi Lee,
I’m not sure exactly which one we bought, but I think the key is to not go for the cheap models or the ones with lights (which have more to go wrong with them). We got one like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Pond-Equipment/Ultrasonic-Maker-Fountain-Atomizer-Humidifier/B00MYOCGNE/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1486567591&sr=8-8&keywords=ultrasonic+pond+fogger
The amount of time it needs to be on depends a bit on ambient humidity in the space outside the fruiting area – we tend to keep ours on all the time during the drier summer months and almost hardly at all during the more humid UK autumn/winter/spring months.
best wishes, Adam
Hey Julian,
welcome to the forum! Yes, when we began growing on coffee back in 2011 we used to use shredded card mixed in and had pretty good success like this for a couple of years. It breaks up the mix reasonably well and if your coffee is very wet it can be added dry and will help to soak up the extra moisture.
Most of the the time though it is best to soak the card in water for an hour or so first (freshly boiled water is ideal to pasteurise it). Then, when it has cooled, squeeze any excess water out and add to the mix at up to 20% of the coffee volume. If you add it dry, most of the time you will create a very dry mix that the mycelium will struggle with.
The main reason we stopped using shredded card was to do with scale and consistency – we wanted a material that was easier to pasteurise/soak in bulk and would mix consistently when on a larger scale. The cardboard tends to clump up in the mix quite a lot so it didn’t work so well in larger batches. Also, whenever we experienced contamination, we suspected the card was the most likely source, so we switched to using straw which gave a much better mix and next to no contamination.
In summary – yes shredded cardboard can work well at a smaller scale and is obviously really easy and cheap to source. Give it a go, and try to pasteurise and squeeze out excess moisture before using.
best wishes, Adam
Hi Josue,
the white stuff on the top of your mushroom is actually just mycelium starting to grow a little. This can happen if you harvest a little too late and/or if they are kept in a very humid environment in the fridge. It’s basically the mycelium trying to keep on growing!
It’s no problem at all to eat. Nice looking crop! 😉
Nice idea Lee, we’ll look into it 🙂
cheers, Adam
Hi Lee,
we’ve never used sodium thiosulfate ourselves so couldn’t say – we’ve always just used water straight out of the tap without any problems.
best wishes, Adam
Hi Lee,
hardwood pellets are ideal if you can source them, but we’ve found them difficult to get hold of in the UK, and have had good results just using softwood pellets. Their main function is creating a more open structure in the coffee mix, but we’ve also grown Oysters in bags of 100% softwood pellets as well.
It’s possible that some of the resin content is reduced in the pellet production process under high heat/pressure, and also Oysters are just really versatile and will grow on lots of materials that other mushrooms won’t, so you should be fine with softwood pellets.
best wishes, Adam
Hi Marjan,
as long as your garage is in the temperature range of 8C – 25C you should be able to grow your mushrooms there fine as long as you maintain good levels of humidity and fresh oxygen.
Regarding the spores:
– it would be best to grow the fruiting mushrooms in a contained space (like the mini-greenhouse exmaple in the course) within the garage to reduce spore drop everywhere
– harvest the mushrooms before they drop too many spores
– the spores shouldn’t cause any problems to your house unless it is very humid in the house (RH 60%+), in which case they could germinate on wood/organic materilas, but it would be pretty unusual
– in large numbers the spores can present respiratory problems in some people, so it’d be best to avoid having lots of spores in rooms you spend alot of time in
hope this helps.
best wishes, Adam
Hi Phae,
the sun’s UV rays don’t usually stop mushrooms from growing, but low humidity certainly can – so I’d guess that it was either the drying affect from the sun or some other unknown factor. If you can post a hoto here or send to support@growmushroomsoncoffee.com I’d be happy to take a look and offer some further thoughts.
best wishes, Adam
Hi Jiouxleigh and welcome to the forum 🙂
Back when I first strated growing mushrooms it was with sawdust from cut logs or sawmills, but (following traditional growing advice) I would always heat sterlise it in a pressure cooker at 120C. I believe this advice is given because people usually add nitrogen rich supplements like rice bran to the sawdust and these tend to contaminate easily unless thoroughly sterilised.
Since then I have only used the sawdust pellets, but I have heard from other amateur growers that they’ve successfully used plain sawdust which has just been pasteurised in hot water at 65-80C for an hour. I would have thought that the lime bath method would also work fine.
In short, I think it’s worth a go – especially as you have the sawdust available.
Hi Alvin,
we have actauuly not yet trialled it ourselves as we’ve beeen unable to easily source any so far from the couple of coffee roasters near to us.
Not sure if Shaun has grow with any yet though?
Hi Daren,
yes we’ve frozen fresh coffee a few times and had no problems with contamination so I think in general that it’s process which works.
It can, however, take quite a long time for large amounts to defrost – more than 2 days for a bin bag full for example. In this time, there is some coffee around the outside of the frozen mass that defrosts quicker than the coffee in the frozen core. This coffee is therefore susceptible to mould starting to grow whilst ytou’re waiting for the rest, so ideally you would freeze the coffee in small (no more than 5kg) quantities in order that they defrost a bit quicker.
hope that makes sense!
best wishes, Adam
Hi Ying, and welcome to the course!
You can grow up to around 20-25% of the substrate weight over 2-3 crops if you re-soak the substrate (overnight in water) in between harvests.
We have found that it is possible to grow at least 2kg mushrooms per m2 every week if you cycle growing bags in and out of the space after just 2 harvests. The 3rd harvest is usually much smaller, so it is better to use the space for new bags than to maxiumise the yield per bag if you are limited in space.
hope this helps.
best wishes,
Adam
Hi Alvin,
apologies for the slow response – we’ve been away on holiday over the Christmas period.
The incubation temperature would depend on the strain that you grow with to some extent, but for the majority of Oyster mushroom strains (warm and cool weather varities) the temperature of the room in which the bags are incubating should be between 20-24C. The warmer weather strains may tolerate it slightly higher than this. It could be worth checking with the spawn supplier you use as they may have ideal parameters for each strain.
best wishes, Adam